What to Feed Ants (and How Often)
A practical feeding guide for pet ants — the two food groups a colony needs, a stage-by-stage schedule, and how to avoid mould and overfeeding.
Feeding ants is refreshingly simple once you understand that a colony needs two quite different things, and that with ants, less is almost always more. Overfeeding causes far more problems than underfeeding.
The two food groups
- Carbohydrates (sugar) power the adult workers. Offer sugar water (roughly one part sugar to three parts water), honey water, or a specialist ant nectar, served on a small dish or bottle cap.
- Protein (insects) feeds the growing brood — eggs, larvae, and pupae. Use small feeder insects such as fruit flies, crickets, mealworm pieces, or roaches. For a small colony, crush or pre-kill them.
Fresh water should always be available, whether from the test tube reservoir or a hydration setup in the nest.
A feeding schedule by colony stage
| Colony stage | Carbohydrate (sugar) | Protein (insects) |
|---|---|---|
| Founding — claustral queen | None needed | None needed |
| First nanitics (a few workers) | Tiny drop, 1–2× a week | One small insect, ~1× a week |
| Growing (tens of workers) | Small dish, refresh 2–3× a week | 2–3 small insects a week |
| Established (hundreds+) | Steady supply or feeder | Several insects a week, to demand |
Let the colony guide you: if food is being ignored and starting to spoil, you’re offering too much; if workers swarm every offering and the brood pile is growing slowly, offer a little more protein.
Keeping food clean
- Remove uneaten food within a day or two — rotting insects and spilled sugar invite mould and mites, two of the most common killers of small colonies.
- Serve food in the outworld, not the nest, and on a dish that’s easy to lift out and clean.
- Vary the protein when you can; a mixed diet is healthier than one insect type forever.
Don’t overfeed
More food does not mean a faster colony — it means fouling and pests. A well-fed colony regulates its own intake far better than you can guess it. This is one of the common beginner mistakes worth designing out from the start.
For everything a new setup needs alongside food, see the starter kit checklist, and for founding-stage feeding specifically, the queen care guide.
Common questions
- What do ants eat?
- Kept ants need two things — a carbohydrate source (sugar water, honey water, or ant nectar) for worker energy, and a protein source (small insects) to feed the growing brood. Water should always be available too.
- How often should I feed my ants?
- Little and often. A small founding colony needs only a tiny sugar drop once or twice a week and one small insect a week; a large colony can take a steady sugar supply and several insects a week. Always remove uneaten food within a day or two.
- Do I need to feed a founding queen?
- A fully claustral queen needs no food at all until her first workers appear — she raises them on her own reserves. Semi-claustral queens (Myrmica, Formica) do better with small amounts of sugar and a tiny insect during founding.
- Can ants eat human food?
- Small amounts of sugar, honey, or cooked plain protein are fine, but avoid salty, oily, spiced, or heavily processed foods. Fresh feeder insects and a simple sugar solution are far better for the colony.
Last updated 5 July 2026